TRAVEL TIPS

RIVER FERRIES
  • Yukon River -- The Top of the World Highway opens only in summer; the exact date of its opening depends largely on the condition of the Yukon River. The last 100 yards of the "road" is actually a 24-hour government car ferry across the Yukon, delivering travelers to Dawson City's doorstep. The ferry doesn't open until winter ice stops barreling down the river, so the road stays closed at least until then.
  • Peel River & McKenzie River -- The Dempster Highway also opens or closes according to the condition of the ice, since it crosses two rivers in its northernmost 122 miles. Both ferries operate from 9 a.m. to 1 a.m. from early June to mid-October. Unlike the Top of the World, the Dempster reopens in the winter. Once the river freezes, an "ice highway" stretches all the way to the Arctic Ocean and to small villages to the east and west that are generally inaccessible in the summer. The ice highway closes once the tundra begins to soften and the ice begins to break up, usually in late April or early May. All ferries are free.
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    RENTAL CARS
  • Many major rental car companies are leery of the Top of the World and Dempster Highways. If you rent a car in Anchorage, companies like Budget and Hertz make you sign a form that prohibits travel on non-paved roads (eliminating more than half the roads in Alaska). Avis is better, simply letting you know you'll be responsible for all damage. If you rent in the Lower 48 or in Canada, you won't likely see similar restrictions. Budget has a rental office in Dawson where it all but expects that renters will be traveling either or both roads, so there are no specific prohibitions. A company called Affordable New Car Rental out of Anchorage (www.ancr.com) advertises reasonable rates, and has a policy similar to Avis.
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    SURVIVING THE TOP OF THE WORLD HIGHWAY
  • Drive slowly. Tow-truck drivers tell us most people get in trouble when they lose control going around corners or pulling over as another car passes. Between Chicken and the United States/Yukon border, the road shoulders are soft gravel, a sure trap for wider vehicles. If you must drive a giant RV, consider unhooking the car or SUV you're dragging behind and driving it separately.
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    SAFETY ON THE DEMPSTER HIGHWAY
  • At a minimum, you should have one good spare tire, a tire jack, water, insect repellent, a first-aid kit and flares. Consider bringing extra food and a sleeping bag. In the winter, add lots of survival gear, including sand, shovel, blankets, candles, flashlights, matches, extra clothing, gloves and a sense of humor.
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    SEEING WILDLIFE
  • Experienced travelers know that the best times to see "charismatic megafauna" (bears, moose, eagles, etc.) is in the hours just after sunset and just before sunrise. Near the Arctic Circle, it never gets very dark in mid-summer, so the strategy is slightly different. You might want to consider an itinerary that lets you enter the road around 5 a.m. or one that gets you into Eagle Plains (or Inuvik) later at night. Figure an average speed of no more than 40 mph, with additional time for sightseeing and rest. If you really care about seeing critters, bring binoculars and a long lens for your camera.
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